It has taken quite some time, and not a little determination, to get French footwear Paraboot into the building. Jumping through the hoops to prove we are acceptable retail partners wasn’t a stretch. But production at the family owned factory in Saint Jean de Moirans (in the Isere if you’re partial to some alpine skiing or iconic cols on your bike) is limited and distribution has to be restricted. This season marks the launch of Paraboot at tkdcincinnati.
The Paraboot factory in Saint-Jean-de-Moirans
Cobbler and entrepreneur Rémy Richard noted that cutters, makers, and even business owners, in the scores of leather factories in the small towns and villages of Izere, were earning considerably less than the city based agents commissioning the shoe production. In 1908 he sold his own shoe designs to clients in Paris and set up in business for himself with investment from his wife, Juliette Pontvert, the daughter of a wealthy notaire. In Paraboot’s first iteration it was styled Richard-Pontvert and provided smart shoes for Parisians. But global travel and an inveterate interest in new technologies led Richard to the US and innovations with rubber. Back in France he developed a rubber sole (predating The Beatles by quite some years) which replaced more traditional leather and wooden soles. The majority of production at his new factory shifted from dressing up footwear to waterproof workwear.
A vintage Paraboot advertisement from the 1950s
Rémy-Alexis Richard, 1908
Julien Richard, son and heir, took over in 1937 in the midst of occupation and then the Second World War. Having negotiated the trials of lack of materials and lack of workers, he then had to negotiate the post war rise in synthetics and the threat to Paraboot’s more traditional manufacturing methods. His strategy for development of the business revolved around the specific promotion of tradition and the marketing of the product to workers in industries where longevity, comfort and sturdiness were critical. Farmers, horse dealers, lumberjacks, shepherds, factory and postal workers and craftsmen are the new consumers.
A post-war Paraboot advertisement, 1946
Next generation Michel Richard steered the company through bankruptcy in the early 80s (a crashing dollar and a once thriving export market made conditions untenable). A fortuitous meeting with major Italian distributor WP Lavori (heritage brands Vans, Barbour, Woolrich, Filson, Baracuta, B.D. Baggies, Avon Celli and Blundstone all stabled in their Bologna headquarters) and a shift in men’s footwear fashion led to the resurgence of their iconic ‘Michael’ shoe and a swift change in Paraboot’s fortunes.
Paraboot enters its fourth generation
Eric Cantona wears the iconic 'Michael'
A new, more urban orientation for the brand
A new, more urban orientation for the brand
For an iconic French brand, it doesn’t have a particularly francophone ring. ‘Para’ is for the port in Amazonia from where the rubber was exported. The English ‘boot’ is from Richard Sr’s 1926 trip to America and his introduction to modern rubber galoshes.
Paraboot under construction
All our Paraboot shoes are Derby construction. Unlike Oxfords, Derby shoes have the quarters stitched on top of the vamp (yep, I’m as confused as you, this is a whole new vocab). Essentially the lacing is looser and the shoe more comfortable.
The iconic, timeless style. First introduced in 1945, made from thick leather with a piped seam for protection; 2 eyelets; a small, strong lace; and a natural rubber sole. Featuring a Norwegian welt (where the sole is hand stitched to the upper with both seams remaining visible), this is a comfortable, sturdy and completely waterproof shoe. Perfect for town or country. Perfect with denim. And perfectly on trend. This is the shoe to get you out of your trainers. Available in brown (Lisse Cafe) and black (Lisse Noir).
The very pinnacle of French footwear. The Reims is a timeless loafer inspired by the Michael, with a sturdy shape that offers a bold and masculine look. Handmade with beautiful plain leather; a piped seam; saddle strap; genuine rubber sole. A classic addition to any wardrobe.
Both a dress and a casual shoe, this is one of Paraboot’s best selling styles. Split toe construction; 5 eyelets; leather lined; Norwegian welted; rubber sole.
The classic deck shoe. First introduced in the 1960s, this model was inspired by the stitching found on Native American moccasins. Featuring simple piped seam; 2 eyelets; Blake stitching (a single stitch method of attaching upper to sole, invented by Lyman Reed Blake in 1856. There will be a test later).
Rob gives us the inside track on the world of Paraboot.
In which we introduce you to our latest family firm and the newest brand in the Beauty and Grooming dept, New York apothecary, CO Bigelow.
Some of you may be feeling a degree of deja vu. Once upon a time, in the olden days of tkdcincinnati, we were proud stockists of CO Bigelow. Sadly import legislation in the noughties cut short this burgeoning relationship. We are delighted that the paperwork has finally been resolved and the shelves are now restocked.
CO Bigelow, founded in 1838 in Greenwhich Village by physician Dr Galen Hunter and known as The Village Apothecary Shoppe, is the oldest apothecary in America. In 1880 Clarence Otis Bigelow bought the business from Dr Hunter and retitled it, eponymously and not terribly modestly, as CO Bigelow. The firm was subsequently sold to the Ginsberg family and is now run by third generation Ginsberg, Ian, lately joined by fourth generation son Alec. Interesting fact: Ian Ginsberg's father, Jerry, was not only a practising pharmacist, but played in a band in the Catskills with Mel Brooks (surely a perfect story line for an episode of Mrs Maisel).
Don’t expect mention of the Kardashians or the Jenners, Bigelow’s celebrity customers are very much the ne plus ultra of the notable in US history. Thomas Edison soothed his burnt fingers with a Bigelow balm when he was working on the lightbulb prototype. Mark Twain popped in two or three times a week. Eleanor Roosevelt sent a very nice thank you note to the firm for a set of ‘toilet articles’. Fast forward to a slightly more contemporary client and John Walters, the New York Dolls and New York’s mayor Ed Koch rubbed shoulders at the in store soda fountain (sadly now closed). And Elvis Costelloe, Diane von Furstenberg and Calvin Klein continue to run their own errands at Bigelow.
Ginsberg is something of a pharmaceutical geek. And the CO Bigelow company archive is something to get geeky about. In the basement of the Greenwich Village premises Ginsberg unearthed handwritten books of formulae; personalised preparations developed by previous generations for their customers. Using this resource as a springboard, he set about developing a range of own brand products.
The Elixir Grooming range extends our Men's Grooming offer. In pleasingly simple language, choose from Black or White Hair and Body Wash. No. 1786 White blends clean citrus notes of Bergamot, Grapefruit and Mandarin with undertones of peppery Wood Spice; No. 1605 Black blends exotic agar wood and tonka bean with undertones of amber, musk and vanilla. Bigelow's Premium Shave Cream is made in Italy to a formula favoured by Italian barbers. The Bay Rum Hair and Body Wash and Deodorant are fragranced with Bay Rum Cologne, from an original recipe from the archives. All are paraben and cruelty free.
At the risk of repeating myself, we really are quite shallow. These salve tins (no. 012 Rose, no. 787 Sakura Rose and no. 013 Lavender) are quite the prettiest way to care for lips and beautify skin. These have been a favourite since the early days. Emulsified with rose or lavender extract, these salves are paraben free and absolutely not tested on animals, they can be used on lips, face, cuticles, elbows, knees, chapped or dry skin patches.
Like the sound of this?
We’ve opened some sweet smelling boxes in our time but Maison Louis Marie deliveries literally waft into store, displacing every lesser particle on the ground floor with some beautifully complex and delicate floral notes. And then there’s the packaging; so simple, so very elegant. It comes as no surprise then that the fancy French name is no marketing gimmick, and there’s a story here much further flung than the fragrance labs of downtown LA.
It starts in 1792 with Louis Marie Aubert du Petit Thouars, a pioneer in French botanical history. During the French revolution, he was exiled to Madagascar, La Reunion and Mauritius where he discovered a huge variety of plant specimens. After ten years he returned to France bearing a collection of over 2000 plants and was promptly elected a member of the prestigious Académie des Sciences.
Fast forward 200 years and Marie du Petit Thouars grew up in Belgium and France making candles and experimenting with scents in her mother’s greenhouse. She then embarked on a career in fashion, initially working for Isabella Blow and later becoming a fashion editor in London for The Sunday Times. Her next move was to LA to study fine art photography, eventually opening a studio, 1294 Sunset, where she went on to launch Maison Louis Marie in 2013.
No. 4 (also known as Bois de Balincourt): Balincourt is the family home outside Paris which is surrounded by an ancient mysterious forest where long walks on the magical trail called Lover’s Lane was a favourite activity of multiple generations of the Thouars family. Taking inspiration from the family estate, and particularly the smell of the forests after heavy rain, Marie, according to the New York Times, 'wanted to create a scent that would remind her of home, no matter how far she travelled.' It's a bit woody with some sweet warmth. With an amber wood base, mid notes of vetiver, nutmeg and cinnamon and top notes of sandalwood.
No. 9 (also known as Vallee de Farney): Vallee de Farney is a nature reserve in the native forests of Mauritius. The forest is home to more than 100 plant species and numerous animals where Louis Marie discovered many new plant specimens. This has a woody, mineral fragrance. Imagine citrus fruit and a log fire. In a good way. With amber, musk, vetiver and benzoin (a balsamic resin, since you ask) base notes, mid notes of patchouli, geranium and top notes of grapefruit, orange and black pepper.
No. 13 (also known as Nouvelle Vague): This refreshing, rich scent takes you to the Italian island of Capri where Marie frequently traveled with her sister while visiting the Amalfi coast. Nouvelle Vague transports you to spring on the Italian coast, where you’re walking on a tiny oceanside street lined with blooming wildflowers and native lemons. Its signature aroma captures an uplifting citrus accord, a sheer floral bouquet, and coconut wrapped with Tuscan fig and agave throughout. Tonka and undertones of golden woods ground this blend in comfort and warmth.
We have been selling the perfume oil, candles and lotions for some time, thanks to a tip off from our lovely friend, the eminently talented calligrapher and nose, Imogen Owen. Next came a very happy foray into the world of EDP (Eau de Parfum) and we've not looked back since. These fragrances last longer on the skin than the perfume oil. Maison Louis Marie estimate 12 hours of deliciousness. Paraben, Sulfate and Phthalate free. And look out for the Perfume Oil Discovery Set; the perfect introductory present to Maison Louis Marie, including Nos 2, 4, 5, 9 and Cassis in cute little 3ml bottles.
Rob is something of a Japanophile (a shinnichi if you will) and Porter-Yoshida represents all that he holds dearest about Japanese heritage, design and production. Here’s the inside track on our latest import.
Porter-Yoshida, established in 1962, is the main brand of Yoshida & Co. The name ‘porter’ references the hotel porters who carried bags and the early branding made playful use of the inspiration. Today Porter continues to make luggage: the Tanker series crafted from an extremely durable nylon, inspired by the fabric used in US Airforce MA-1 jackets and lined with distinctive bright orange nylon taffeta; the 2Way Flex is a packable series made from nylon ripstop. Each design is perfectly imagined, providing the ideal capacity for its stated purpose.
Kichizo Yoshida founded Yoshida & Co in 1935, with a solemn commitment to Japanese manufacture. His philosophy of ‘Heart and Soul in every Stitch’, describing the company’s dedication to excellence at every stage of the production process and its support of individual makers, has now become the corporate motto. Kichizo Yoshida was himself a craftsman and the motto expresses his belief that the heart of the maker should be present in every stitch, creating not just high quality work but imbuing the finished article with soul. Where other brands may have sought cheaper production overseas or built monolithic factories to serve demand, Yoshida & Co has remained true to its founder’s original intentions and still works with over 80 individual factories and studios producing bags in collaboration with them.
Kichizo Yoshida began his training as a bag craftsman in Tokyo in 1918. The Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, which devastated the city, proved to be something of a turning point for the young maker. In the rush to vacate his apartment he grabbed his tools and most significant belongings and tied them together with a rope for ease of carrying, leading him to coin another phrase which still rings true at Yoshida & Co: ‘A bag should first of all be a tool to carry goods’.
By 1935 Yoshida had established his accessories business Yoshida Kaban Seisakujo, which was later renamed Yoshida & Co. In 1953 the company had its first great success with the Elegant Bag. This innovative bag featured an adjustable zippered-gusset that altered the width of the bag, making it ideal for the constraints of space in modern Tokyo.
Further innovations followed. With the launch of Porter in 1962, Kichizo Yoshida was at the vanguard of developing an aspirational brand. Retailers in Japan (both department stores and smaller specialist stores) had historically dominated the hierarchy in terms of brand loyalty (as a retailer, I have to say I like the sound of that!) but with Porter, Yoshida moved the customer focus to the manufacturer. The Tanker series was launched in 1984.
Yoshida died in 1994 but the company continues his legacy. Everything is still stitched with heart and soul.
We can’t really put it better than this: a homage to Porter Yoshida, from the novelist and essayist, Tash Aw, writing in Granta:
‘Arguably the most beautiful object I own – since I’m someone who believes that beauty resides in usability – is a black nylon ‘Porter’ rucksack made by Yoshida & Co., which I use almost daily. It accompanies me to the library, the swimming pool and supermarket, travels with me on long-distance flights, and has survived two treks in Nepal, where – stuffed with clothes – it even served as a pillow for a few nights. There’s nothing remarkable about the rucksack at first glance, but people who travel a lot will notice certain things about it: its ideal size, not too big or small (thirty litres, to be precise); the incredibly light but durable fabric from which it is made; the way its various pockets provide ample storage without upsetting the simplicity of its aesthetic. I can travel quickly and smoothly with it, slip through crowds without drawing attention to myself.’
Super versatile, practical and stylish: choosing a Porter Yoshida bag can be tough when they are all so great! Some of our favourite styles are shown below, or click the link for all our available styles.
This bag has been made from a nylon ripstop fabric originally used in military parachutes for to its lightweight yet durable nature. Designed with a purposely flat design so that it can be packed into its interior pouch when not in use, there is nothing this bag can't do!
Keep all your daily essentials in one easy place with this compact but spacious shoulder bag. The utilitarian design was originally modelled on military bomber jackets.
Crafted from industrial grade 210 denier nylon, it is lightweight and hard wearing with a utilitarian vibe, thanks to the military gear influences. You'll never leave home without it.
Crafted from glossy black nylon and lined in rescue-orange shell, drawing inspiration from the US Air Force's 'MA-1' jacket, it is lightly padded to protect its contents: the perfect travel companion.
Get a slice of our latest piece of Americana (Slice? Piece? Could we be talking about cakestands?). Or why tkdcincinnati is channelling Martha Stewart’s milk glass obsession.
Mosser Glass, founded in 1971 by Tom Mosser, manufactures pressed glass from their factory in Cambridge, Ohio. The business is still family owned, run by Tom’s three children. We’ve been working with the multi tasking Mindy Mosser. When she isn’t working on Sales, she seems to be helping out on the production line. When she wasn’t available for a call last week, she was working in Despatch. And we’re told she also runs the gift shop. Lord knows, we love a family firm.
Cambridge, Ohio was once a centre for glass production. Tom Mosser started his career as a teenager, working with his father Orie, who was plant manager for the Cambridge Glass Company. During the 1950s developments in manufacturing, competition from the Far East and cultural changes, led to the demise of many of the factories in the area, including Cambridge Glass. So in 1959 Tom Mosser struck out on his own, initially making glassware from an abandoned chicken coop. Within two years he had formed Variety Glass, producing for the pharmaceutical industry. In 1971 he founded Mosser Glass, to produce decorative items and tableware, resurrecting the area’s heritage, and using historic moulds from Cambridge Glass.
Pressed glass, or moulded glass, is made by pressing molten glass into a decorative mould. The glass is finished with a process called fire polishing, applying a direct flame to give an even, glossy finish. Each piece requires a six stage process and takes over three hours to complete. Tom Mosser, and the subsequent generations of the Mosser family, have been able to benefit by having a mould factory close to their own production plant.
Milk Glass, for those of you not familiar with the collecting exploits (non IRS related) of Martha Stewart, is a term used for opaque glass. It was first made in Venice in the 16th Century as a competitor to fine porcelain but reached something of a zenith (in collectable terms) in the 19th and early 20th century in the States. Although the name suggests white (and this is predominant), it also comes in a variety of colours (check out jadeite, blue and marble from our Mosser collection).
Available in three sizes (humble, moderate and grand, I’m embellishing, actually 6”, 10” and 12”) and four colours (jade, Georgia blue, milk and marble), the cakestand is the iconic Mosser piece. There is nothing better to show off your baking efforts. Accessorise with the juice reamer (I know, I always thought it was just called a juicer) and the measuring jar (charmingly Imperial). If you’re going the full Americana (mint juleps on the porch; yard sale; whiskey sours on the Fourth of July; poolside party on the Cape) you will need the Jadeite (or blue or milk) ensemble with Panel Pitcher and Tumblers. FYI Mosser Glass also does contract work. If you need a customised piece of glass for a specific chemical process or a headlamp for an obscure vintage car, look no further.
As mild and as natural as can be, the Minois range was developed for children’s delicate skin but it’s so scrummy that we’re claiming it for ourselves too.
Working in marketing in Paris and subsequently moving to Bordeaux with her partner, founder Hélène Fulchi had toyed with the idea of creating her own brand for some time. But it was the birth of her daughter Paz that spurred her into action, in particular the desire to find the absolute best and most natural products for her baby’s skin. And so Minois came to be, a range of all natural baby skincare products.
Made in the South of France, all the products have been developed using supremely mild formulas and exclusively natural and organic ingredients – orange blossom, calendula, honey, sweet almond oil and shea butter. Free from any of the nasty stuff - no parabens, phenoxyethanol, sulphates, silicone or dye - they can be used from birth onwards - and the scent definitely has a whiff of sweet, clean baby skin about it which we love.
Here on tkdcincinnati shelves you'll find the new detangling conditioner and moisturising shampoo, a gentle cream, a delicate cleansing gel, bubble bath plus the laundry soap. All beautifully packaged in bottles of pure white featuring the brand's pastel watercolour splashes. In French, Minois literally means 'sweet little face' and it couldn't be a more fitting name for the sweet world Hélène has created. Here's hoping some of it washes off on us.
Yvon Chouinard, Patagonia's founder, got his start as a climber in 1953 as a 14-year-old member of the Southern California Falconry Club, which trained hawks and falcons for hunting. He was taught how to rappel down the cliffs to the falcon aeries. He soon started hopping freight trains to Stoney Point and eventually learned to climb. From there he moved on to the big walls of Yosemite..
In Yosemite, multi-day ascents required hundreds of placements of soft iron pitons which were placed once, then left in the rock. In 1957 Chouinard decided to make his own reusable hardware. He went to a junkyard and bought a used coal-fired forge, a 138-pound anvil, and started teaching himself how to blacksmith..
In the 60’s Chouinard began his business by forging and selling steel pitons to sustain his climbing. He could forge two of his in an hour, and sold them for €1.50 each. Since most of his tools were portable, he’d load up his car and travel the California coast from Big Sur to San Diego, surfing and forging pitons. By 1965, there was enough demand for Chouinard's gear that he couldn't keep making it by hand. He had to start using tools, dies and machinery. He began redesigning and improving almost every climbing tool, to make them stronger, lighter, simpler, and more functional.
In 1970, Chouinard Equipment had become the largest supplier/manufacturer of climbing gear in the North America. But as climbing became more popular, it also remained concentrated on the same routes. The fragile cracks had to endure repeated hammering of pitons, both placement and removal of pitons caused severe disfiguring of the rock face.
After an ascent of the degraded Nose route on El Capitan which had been pristine a few summers earlier, Chouinard decided to phase out of the piton business. In 1972, pitons were discontinued and an editorial was written for the catalog advocating “Clean Climbing” the use of aluminum chocks and slings instead of chrome- molybdenum steel pitons. Within a few months of the catalog's mailing, the piton business had atrophied; chocks sold faster than they could be made. It was at this point that he began to see a correlation between the environment and business.
Clothing became part of the Chouinard Equipment catalog with the introduction of Rugby shirts to be used for climbing. The soft goods line expanded to include polyurethane anoraks and bivouac sacks from Scotland, boiled-wool gloves and mittens from Austria, and hand-knit reversible "schizo" hats from Boulder. Chouinard believed that clothing must be as efficient as climbing equipment: an alpinist on a bivouac needs to stay warm when it is cold and feel comfortable when it is warm. In 1973, the name Patagonia was founded. The name was chosen because of Chouinard’s love of the region, it would broaden the appeal beyond climbing and it can be pronounced in every language.